Day 6 - Clay Pit Wood to Hanging Hill - 18 Miles
| I woke up even earlier than usual with the pitter patter of raindrops on canvas. They were tiny and didn’t last long and so I dozed on for a little while longer. I got up and started to pack the tent away at about 5.45am. I had a breakfast of Brannigans ham and pickle crisps bought in The Falcon pub at lunchtime in Wotton under Edge the day before. I brushed my teeth and drank the last of the water and the remains of the last bottle of diet coke with lime that I’d managed to ration, and then set off munching Midget Gems that I’d bought in Dursley.
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My pitch on the very edge of Clay Pit Wood before taking down the tent.
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The wonderful if pongy carpets of wild garlic as I set off for the day.
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| The path along the edge of the wood was a quagmire, churned up by horses yet again – a bit of a problem on parts of this long distance walk it seems! The carpets of wild garlic were, as usual, pungently beautiful! I thankfully took to the fields after a short way and made it to a mainish road, though this was of course quiet at this ridiculous time of day! I turned left along it, walking beneath the Somerset Memorial and into the edge of Hawkesbury Upton village, but before entering the village proper I turned right up a lane in front of ‘an ancient drovers’ pool’. I soon turned left off the lane and up a track called Bath lane quite appropriately as that was my ultimate goal! There were good views off ot the right, over the Severn valley to Wales, all the way along here, but the closer at hand scenery was flat, dull and uninspiring, being mainly large arable fields of winter wheat. This continued for some time, until I began to near Horton Court, which sat in a little ancient wooded valley, the birds twittering away and seeming to be all the more noisy because of the recent absence of birdsong on the arable field trudging.
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Left: The Somerset memorial from the road on my approach to Hawkesbury Upton Above: looking back at the Somerset memorial and the escarpment edge behind from Bath Lane after leaving Hawkesbury Upton. |
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I entered the woods and knew they would be carpeted with garlic by the smell before I even got to them. The trees were beautiful, beeches, horse chestnuts etc of great girth and age. I descended through them and emerged at a field of bullocks which thankfully, although inquisitive and almost wanting to chase me, were obvioulsy too tired at this time of the morning! At the lane I turned right to go and see if I could get a glimpse of the house itself and then after my investigation through the gates I retraced my steps along the lane and walked all the way along it, perched on the hillside into the village of Horton.
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The wonderful ancient trees and carpets of wild garlic as I enter the woods surrounding Horton Court.
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Horton Court house itself from the hillside.
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The manor house and church fromthe end of the driveway.
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I crossed almost straight over the lane through the village and up a small lane between houses which emerged at a field of horses. Just past this I sat ona stile overlooking a dammed up stream that formed a small reservoir. I had no drink but contented myself with munching on a few more Midget Gems before settign off steeply down to the small valley bottom and then up the other side again. Just before Little Sodbury I came to another field of bullocks which, unfortunately seemed definitely up for some fun. At my approach, they all got up and raced towards the stile into the field.. hmmm…. I decided to go into the next field through a barbed wire fence and walk along behind the hedge. Just before the small farmstead near the road I re entered the proper field, the bullocks being totally unaware that I’d slipped by them? After walking through the farm and along their garden path, much to the annoyance of the old farmer and his wheelbarrow I’m sure, I emerged at the lane and turned right and then follwed the next lane around to the left by the modern looking (Victorian?) church. As I passed by the pleasant enough but poor looking manor house on the right, the hillside to the left was very hummocky and this is due to the formation of Pillow Mounds in Medieval times which were man made rabbit warrens for a ready supply of meat apparently. After a further few hundred yards of walking along the lane I had to turn right and climb the escarpment edge again to visit the fairly impressive fort at the top. Being smaller than Uley Bury, it was much easier to get an overview of what it had looked like in its day. The path entered through a breach in the northern corner of the forts ring defenses and then cut straight across the flat ground inside to exit through a breach on the southern side. Quite interesting and well worth the small climb. It was a steep descent again through woods on a small track,a nd then I turned left to walk along the top edge of a field sloping gently away to my right, the church of Old Sodbury visible ahead on its hill.
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The breach in the outer defensive ring of
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After descending from the fort,
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I entered the village by walking through a small field that warned of a bull, but if it was in there it was hiding up the steep hill to my left, because I didn’t see it. I walked through the churchyard and sat on a bench at its far side for a while admiring the view. The villagers had constructed a topograph just beyond the churchyard wall to mark the Millenium. I descended through fields and joined a small lane leading to the main road. Left: The church at Old Sodbury |
Just before I reached the road I asked a lady walking her dog if there was a shop in the village, as by this time I was definitely needing a drink and provisions for the rest of the day! She said there was a post office down the main road to the right, which I’d hoped was true because I’d seen it marked on the map, but the map being so old it could have closed years ago. Just as I reached the main road though, there was a petrol station which had more than enough for my needs and a friendly and chatty lady behind the counter into the bargain. |
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| Fed and watered I set off again, ladened with stocks of food and drink for later on as well! I crossed the main road and walked along the lane almost opposite before entering a field via a path on the left that gradually climbed up the flanks of the escarpment off to the left. I reached a lane and turned right along it, descending to the pretty hamlet of Coomb’s End. One or two handsome houses with a triangle of waste land/meadow out the front. I took a path off to the left and entered the estate of Doddington Park. It was pretty parkland with stands of unusual species of tree. |
The pretty hamlet of Coomb's End.
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Glimpses of the folly by the ornamental lake in Doddington Park. |
After rounding woodland and
crossing a small stream I caught glimpses of the ornamental lake
off to the
right, through the trees and a beautiful folly building next to it. I only got the tiniest of glimpses at the house itself through a
stand of trees and as I climbed up the hill and behind the woods
hiding it, all hope of seeing it were lost. At the top of the climb
I walked along the edges of fields of quite long grass so the going
was quite tiring. I sat on a grassy bank for a while, overlooking
the small valley running through the park, and then carried on, finally
making my way up to the main A46 after crossing a series of small
springs and streams. |
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Crossing the noisy M4 on the revised route |
I crossed this busy road and made my way into the pretty village of Tormarton via small fields and stone stiles in the walls surrounding them. I decided to follow the new revised route from here to Tormarton picnic area, and so I walked along the main road out of the village and then, after crossing the noisy M4 took a driveway to Lower Lapdown Farm, and then field edges gradually angling away from the M4 off to the right. This part of the walk was certainly a trudge.. flat boring arable fields with first the roar of the M4 and as this gradually subsided the new roar of the approaching A46 and today the noise of dirt bikes roaring around a track somewhere near the Picnic area on top! |
When I got to the picnic area I sat on one of the benches and had a break, being really quite weary by this point, and decided to eat the bag of cashew nuts that I’d bought at the petrol station in Old Sodbury. I set off again, through what turned out to be a gay cruising area… I’d wondered why all the cars in the picnic area car park had been empty! I followed the edge of the thin strip of woodland/cruising ground keeping to the field edge and then beyond that turned left along another field edge footpath with good views of the plateau below and the M4 disappearing westwards. At a lane I crossed over and took the lane almost opposite the gate from which I emerged. This continued to a bend, at which I turned right and started to descend into the Dyrham Park estate. As I cut gradually down the side of a small valley I could see the Stip Lynchets on the opposite valley side that had been marked on the map. A form of terraced farming from medieval times. Off to my left was the wall and fence to the deer park that sits atop the hill behind the house itself. I eventually joined a track and descended to the lane through the beautiful collection of houses that was Dyrham village itself. The house itself, on the left as I continued along the lane was beautiful, nestled as it is on the edge of the hillside and the church right next to it. I didn’t have much time to dawdle here as I was on a mission at this point to reach a pub that was marked on the map still some way ahead at Pennsylvania and I wanted to arrive there in time for them to still be open if they weren’t all day opening.
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The wonderful quiet hamlet of Dyrham
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And the beautiful Dyrham House itself.
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| I sat briefly on an octagonal bench around a tree for a quick rest after I left the lane and then set off at a rush across the fields, having to climb a short way and then descend again to cross a small valley before a quite ferocious climb through Dyrham Wood. I was lucky yet again though as the path was in good condition and newly laid. The surrounding woodland looked quite boggy, which made me thank my lucky stars! I was able to climb the hill quickly and without too much effort, thought the sweat pouring off me by the time I reached the fields at the top didn’t seem to agree with this! I cut across these fields to join the first of two roads to cross. I crossed straight over and through a stile in the opposite hedge and turned left behind the hedge running along the roadside.. yet another route improvement. I arrived in Pennsylvania, a pretty small and un picturesque place on a main road, and to my dismay there was no sign of the pub marked on the map. There was a B&B called Old Swan or something and I took it that the pub had closed and was now B&B accommodation! Luckily there was a petrol station so I bought extra provisions and sat there eating them. While I was there I was cheeky and asked the girl behind the counter if I could charge my phone up for 15 minutes or so. She agreed very kindly and in a way that sounded like it was a common request? I was really disheartened about the pub being shut. It wasn’t pleasant sitting on the edge of the petrol forecourt eating food and an ice cream with traffic rushing up and down the main road noisily. Sigh!!
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Cold Ashton church. |
Phone topped up a little.. I set off at a sluggish pace after half an hour or so of being in the pub forsaken place!:) I crossed the main road and cut diagonally across the fields climbing slightly towards Cold Ashton on the next hill. Of course… just to piss me off good and proper… when I reached the main road and turned left along it for a short way.. there was a pub! Shut now of course as it wasn’t an all day opener and it was past time now! Good grief! I crossed the main road and took a path along a large wall and towards the churchyard of Cold Ashton, which I walked through and emerged on the lane running through the village itself. |
The lane ran in front of the magnificent Rectory and Manor, both as big as each other and very ornate, the manor only being more ornate, because of its wonderful gate of cotswold stone. Both houses and the lane commanded good views right out across another pretty valley, though I was at this point exceedingly tired and my feet were hurting quite a lot too with all my rushing and forced route marching to reach the none existant pub in Pennsylvania!!
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View from the lane in front of the manor and rectory in Cold Ashton.
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The rectory, and beyond, the manor in Cold Ashton.
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The lovely ornate gate in front of the manor house.
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I crossed the main road.. the A46 yet again and took a lane opposite that at first ran along the valley adge and then began to cut quite steeply downwards towards the valley bottom. This wasn’t pleasant on the feet at all. After passing Hill Farm I entered fields again that overlooked a dammed up lake, not in existence when my map was made. I took the executive decision to sit down on my rucksack for a good half an hour or so to at least try to recover before making my way as far as possible before pitching the tent for the night, so as to only have a short stroll into Bath the following morning. I took my boots and socks off and let them air while I sat there. It was quite lovely! My feet looked much worse than they felt… all very sweaty and worn looking with big creases in the souls etc.. hmmm lovely! NOT? Mustn’t knock them though! They’d done me proud so far!! While I sat there, two men came with a spaniel and kept throwing things into the water for it to fetch. After they left I watched them head off back in the direction I was to have to follow very soon and then watched them climb quite steeply up the distant valleyside. I set off behind them, walking across the fields in the valley bottom towards a farm and turned left for a short distance along a lane and over a ford. I then cut up the valleyside quite steeply, following the path the two blokes with the spaniel had taken. At the top of the hill I came to the site of the Battle of Lansdown Hill (1643), crossing a stone stile and follwing the field edge to the woods at the edge of the hill. Wlaking through these and along the rim of the hill I emerged at a monument commemorating Sir Bevil Grenville, who died in the civil war battle fought here. The Parliamentarian forces had formed up on top of the hill, from where they launched a series of attacks on the Royalists in the valley below. Sir Bevil led the charge that drove the Parliamentarians off the hill, but died in the action.
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View back from near the summit of Lansdown Hill
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Above: One of the numerous monuments and information boards dotted around the top of Lansdown Hill giving information about the battle. Right: Memorial to Sir Bevil Grenville |
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From here I followed the waymarks to the main road crossing it and following a path next to a lane around the edge of the hill. I emerged onto Hanging Hill with great views north and west, but a very strong wind! I was by this time looking for somewhere to pitch the tent, but the wind here would have made things a bit chilly. I sat on a bench and rang mum and had a snack and drink while admiring the view and then set off around the hill. Just after I’d rounded the point of the hill I found a nice spot to pitch that wasn’t tooooo sloping and sheltered from the wind that was blowing on the other side of the hill. I set up and sat down to write some of the diary, only realising at that point that I was fairly close to a number of small ants nests and so hoped that they wouldn’t make the pitch a nightmare after all! I was asleep before dark yet again! |
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View from the tent pitch at the end of day 6.
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