September 17th - Torrent Bay to Awaroa Hut - 21kms

 

'as one shower ended and another began, we set off trudging down the wet path'

I woke up in Torrent Bay quite cold with the sound of rain pattering on the roof. I couldn't believe it. I'd been convinced it couldn't rain any more!! I got up at 6.30am and looked out of the window - the tide was still in. Then again it could have been flood water, who knows!!!?? Andrew lay in bed and I resurrected the fire from one burning ember. I was quite proud of my roaring blaze. Andrew got up and we toasted muffins on a fork over the fire and had pate on them.

We also packed up our bags and donned our still considerably damp clothes from yesterday. We sterilised water and brushed our teeth, and at 8.45am, as one shower ended and another began, we set off trudging down the wet path with heavy hearts, aching shoulders and sore feet.

By the time we reached the village of Torrent Bay, it was pouring again. We saw a chap who lived there walking across the road under an umbrella, his only comment, "Lovely weather!". Our reply "Arrrgghhhh!". To make matters worse it was a steep climb up over the headland to get out of the village - not what you need first thing in the morning! However, by the time we reached the top, amazement of amazements, it had stopped raining!!! We trudged on, the water dripping from the trees and underfoot making us pretty indifferent as to whether it was raining or not anyway.

The view back over Torrent Bay village and the estuary behind after the steep climb.
As we walked around the headlands though, the sky began to lighten and at last a very watery sun began to cast the weakest of shadows. From then on it continued to improve as did our spirits. Our steps lightened as we rounded hills, the noises of rumbling waves being replaced by the roaring of streams as we entered the valleys between them.

 

'the sky began to lighten and at last a very watery sun began to cast the weakest of shadows'

One of the beautiful bays and beaches of day two.
We got to a swing bridge across the longest river in the park, its tea brown water swirling along beneath us through the moss covered trees. We stopped for a raisin stop at the end of the bridge, after having taken photos. By now the sun was shining brightly in a mostly blue sky. We'd taken off our coats and were too hot now!!!

Andrew on the swing bridge

'the longest river in the park, its tea brown water swirling along beneath us'

'We walked on through the bush, with lots of tree ferns.'

 We walked on through the bush, with lots of tree ferns. We came upon one place full of them, their dense delicate umbrellas shutting out the brightness above. Here and there shafts of light cut through, making water droplets sparkle as they dropped down to a golden pool, where they sent dark ripples outwards. The light shining through the leaves was beautiful. We reached Bark Bay Hut 11.30am (faster than the scheduled time). We had our lunch there of cheese ham and tomato sarnies and a piece of chocolate cake. It was very nice and when we had finished we shouldered our packs again (my shoulders were already killing me!!!) and walked off across the sandy estuary crunching loads of shells beneath our boots. At the far side we had to cross a stream and took our boots off this time. When we'd re-shoed we had to climb up over a 100m high saddle, which again was quite hard work and had me puffing and panting and sweating buckets, but then I was carrying my heavy pack. Can't wait for the hilly inland route!!!?

From the top we passed inland a little and then rejoined the coast at a disused quarry and a lovely beach. We chatted to an older couple for a while who were heading down to Bark Bay Hut for the night. We then walked over to another large sandy beach walking along it and leaving it to climb another saddle. Over the top we saw a sign to a café but ignored it and carried on on the longer coastal track.

Another estuary of tea brown water

One of the many beautiful beaches on day 2

Another lovely beach

 

Tonga Island
By the time we reached Awaroa Hut my feet were killing and had probably taken over from the pain in my shoulders. It was another modern pine place with 20 or so bunks like Bark Bay had been. We arrived at about 4pm ish and collapsed having a freezing cold shower in the open air. In the evening we positively feasted on a cheese ham and tomato sarnie and sea food soup, followed by apricot fingers. Yum yum!! We went to bed at the ridiculously early time of 7.45pm (It was dark anyway) after playing Blackjack. We climbed up to our platform with mattresses, the downstairs all being taken (11 people including us staying) and fell fast asleep as soon as our heads touched the pillow. (Our rolled up coats).